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I recently made a 14 minute instructional video on How to Brew Kombucha, as well as a FREE (for email/rss subscribers) companion ebook.

Recipe Collection: Beef Steaks with Creamy Mushroom Gravy

I’ve been doing desserts lately and that’s great.  Who doesn’t love dessert?  And baking, like last week’s honey-oat bread?

But now it’s time to turn back to the main course.  You have to have something to eat besides just cookies, right?  These beef steaks with creamy mushroom gravy fit the bill.

They’re reminiscent of salisbury steaks, but with slightly different flavors, and the addition of a touch of cream in the final sauce.  Serve them up with mashed potatoes and you won’t be disappointed.  For the pickier eaters in your home, serve without the sauce.  This meal is suitable for those on GAPS.

Ingredients:

  • 1 lb. ground beef
  • 1 sprig fresh thyme
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1/2 tsp. sea salt
  • 1/4 tsp. black pepper
  • 8 tbsp. butter, divided (could use coconut oil or ghee)
  • 4 oz. cremini mushrooms, sliced
  • 2 tbsp. unbleached flour (or 1 tbsp. arrowroot)
  • 1 c. beef stock
  • 1/4 c. cream (or coconut milk)

Directions:

Place the ground beef in a medium-sized glass bowl.

Add the thyme, salt, pepper, and shallot.

Add the egg yolks.

Stir the meat together thoroughly.  Then, start melting butter (4 tbsp.) in a large frying pan.

Shape the meat into small steaks (about 8 of them) and add to the pan.

Cook for 5 – 10 minutes per side over medium-high heat, until the steaks are cooked through.

Remove the steaks from pan and set aside.  Add the remaining butter and mushrooms.

Sautee the mushrooms until cooked.

Add the flour.

Cook and stir for a minute, then add beef stock and cook for a minute until thickened.  Add the cream and remove from the heat.  Serve the gravy over the steaks (you may want to double it if everyone really likes it; my family doesn’t).

How do you like your beef steaks?

Monday Health & Wellness: Kombucha Video

Are you interested in brewing kombucha, but feel overwhelmed by the process?  Not sure where to start?  Need a visual on how to make it work?

Well…we’ve just released a video on how to brew your own kombucha!  I walk you through the process, showing you all of the equipment, the process of starting your brew, cautions about what could go wrong (and how to prevent that), and how to bottle your kombucha in the double fermentation method.  I demonstrate how to create pineapple and (my favorite) strawberry lemonade flavors.

I know when I first started brewing, it took me several batches to figure it out, and I was very intimidated by the process.  I read directions over and over and over on various blogs, trying to make sure I understood how to do it.  More recently, I looked at various kombucha videos, because I know many of you are visual learners (me too), and I was a bit disappointed with them.  Many just did not go into detail about the process or actually do it, they just showed the equipment and briefly talked about how one would do the steps.  Not very helpful.

So, I created my own video on how to brew your own kombucha.  You can view it right here:

Kombucha eBook

Some of you (also like me) love the visual, but also want more information about kombucha.  What are the health benefits and why should you brew it?  What are other flavors?  What is the probiotic content?  How to troubleshoot your brew?  and so on.

It’s not really feasible to discuss all that in a short video, plus it would be hard to remember!  Instead, I’ve created an accompanying ebook all about kombucha.

This book is free, all you have to do is subscribe. :)  (If you prefer not to subscribe, you can buy it here for $3.95.  Subscribers receive a code to get the book free.)

Win a Kombucha Starter Kit

Since we’re talking about brewing kombucha, and in honor of the release of the video and ebook, we’re holding a giveaway for a kombucha SCOBY!  This giveaway, like the book and video, are sponsored by Cultures for Health.  We’re running the giveaway a little differently than usual, so make sure you read the directions below.

This prize includes:

  • Kombucha SCOBY
  • 2 Flip-top Grolsch-style Bottles
  • Plastic Mesh Strainer
  • Oolong Tea
  • pH Strips

How to enter to win:

Good luck!  I hope you enjoy the book, video, and chance to win a starter kit!

**This post has been entered in Monday ManiaHomestead Barn Hop, Real Food Wednesday, Wildcrafting Wednesday, Frugal Days and Sustainable Ways.**

Do you brew kombucha or are you hoping to start?  What is your favorite flavor, or what has been holding you back?

The Perfect Diaper Bag Tutorial

A diaper bag.

It’s a necessity for mommies everywhere.  I’ve looked at tons online (which can cost up to several hundred dollars, if you want a designer label — I fail to understand why that would ever be necessary, but that’s me).  I’ve used a few that I was given or bags that I had around.  I sewed one right before I had my second baby (it was okay — too big and the zipper broke, and I never fixed it).  I’ve given it a lot of thought, really — what would be in my ultimate diaper bag?

Well, here are my issues:

  • Space — I need something that’s going to carry everything I need for three kids (though my oldest doesn’t need much now), but not be overwhelmingly big either.
  • Pockets — I have lots of different stuff to carry, like keys, wallet, snacks, wipes, etc.  I like to have separate pockets to put them in so I can easily find each thing.
  • Wet bag — I never.remember.to.bring.it.  EVER.  I usually end up tucking my dirty diapers in a side pocket, which then means the whole bag smells and has to be washed frequently.
  • Cups — The kids constantly want a drink on the go, so we take cups everywhere.  There has to be an easily-accessible place to put their cups.
All right.  So.  That’s what I needed to accomplish with this bag.  I thought about it for a long time, talked to other mothers, and ultimately came up with this:
  • 12″x18″x6″ size
  • Zip closed on top
  • Long 2″ wide shoulder strap
  • Three divided pockets on outside
  • Cup/bottle holders on both ends of bag
  • Inside, large snap-closed pocket
  • Other inside, built-in wet bag with zipper
  • Zippered snap-on pouch (inside) for wallet, keys, phone (option)
  • Fully lined

How awesome does that sound?

Now, there are some tricky parts to this.  Putting in that wetbag is a bit frustrating at times.  But go slow, take it step by step, and you will get it done.  Are you ready?

You will need:

  • 1 yard “cute” bottom-weight fabric
  • 1 yard lighter fabric (for lining; I used linen)
  • 1/2 yard PUL
  • 10″ 1/4″ elastic
  • Matching thread
  • 18″ zipper
  • 14″ zipper
  • 5 snaps (if desired)

Now, you will need to cut several pieces from this.  I will attempt to show you below in a picture, but I am also going to tell you.

  • 4- 13×19 rectangles (2 cute fabric; 2 lining fabric)  This is the body of the bag
  • 2- 45×7 rectangle (1 cute; 1 lining)  This is the sides and bottom of the bag
  • 2- 24×3 rectangle (cute fabric) This is the strap
  • 2- 6×7 rectangles (cute fabric)  These are the cup holders
  • 2- 19×7 rectangles (1 cute; 1 lining fabric) This is the inside pocket and outside pocket
  • 1- 19×24 rectangle (PUL) This is the wetbag
  • 1- 8×4 rectangle (cute) This is the optional snap-in pouch

Breathe.  One step at a time.  I can’t tell you how many times I went over and over all the pieces I cut to make sure I had all of them.  If you find you’re missing something, you can always go back later.  The pieces above are folded up in some cases so you can see the lining pieces underneath.  Top is the strap; the large center part is the body pieces; left side is cup holders; right side is inner/outer pockets; bottom is the bottom/side of bag.  PUL is missing from this picture (oops).

First we’re going to do the strap.  It’s the easiest.  Put the fabric pieces right sides together, and sew around both the long sides and one short side, leaving the other short side open.

Now, use that open end to turn the fabric right side out.  It will look like a tube.

Tuck the ends of the open side in about 1/2″ and sew it closed.  Then, turn to the long side and press it down smoothly and sew all the way down.  Go around the entire strap this way.  This is called “top stitching” and it makes your tube into a nice flat strap.

 

There, the strap is done.  Now, let’s do the side/bottom.  Measure from each end of this piece (the cute one) down exactly 13″.  Make a mark here.

This is where you will put the bottom of your cup holders.  Set it aside for a minute.  Pick up each cup holder and get your elastic.  Cut it into two 5″ pieces.  Now, place the elastic on the wrong side of each cup holder, about 1/2″ from the top.

Use a zigzag stitch to sew the end of each elastic to the edge of the cloth (positioned as above).  Then, slowly stretch it and sew all the way across.  When it’s done it will naturally pucker since you stretched it.

Fold down the extra fabric over the elastic.  Sew it down, stretching the elastic so you get a smooth, straight seam as you do.  Do the same to the second cup holder.

Now it’s time to sew the cup holders onto the long bottom/sides of the bag piece.  Place the bottom of the cup holder at the mark you made earlier (it will not go all the way up) and sew it down.

Notice, because of the gathering, that the top edges match, but the bottom is a little bigger than the strap.  Simply gather it a little bit in the center (I did two little “fold over” sections about a third of the way through) and then it will match nicely and you’ll have a good pocket.

You can see a little bit of the gathering in the above picture.  Do the same thing to the other cup holder.

Then, pin the lining fabric to the back of this one (wrong sides together).  Sew the long sides, but leave the short sides open for later.  Set this aside.

Now, we’re going to work on one of the sides of the bag.  You’ll need one “cute” side, one lining side, and both the cute and lining pockets.

First, hem the top edge of the big pockets.

Pin the inner pocket to the lining, and the outer pocket to the outer fabric.

Sew these down along the sides and the bottom, leaving the top (hemmed part) open.

Now, put the two parts together (pockets facing out) and sew together.  This part of the bag is now done.

Here comes the trickiest part…so pay attention!  Though actually this wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be.

Get your other lining fabric and your PUL.  Lay the PUL out flat with the shiny side DOWN.  Place the lining fabric over the top half of it, and pin it down (seriously — pin it.  I didn’t, then screwed it up, had to rip stitches, and pin it to redo it).

This is tricky to sew because the shiny side of the PUL is down against the sewing machine and it slips around easily.  Go slow.  Sew it together on all four sides.  On the bottom (where the PUL hangs down), stay a couple inches above the bottom of the lining fabric.  Later you will be folding the PUL up to make the bag.

Once these parts are sewn together, it’s time to make the slit for the zipper.  Here is about where it should be placed.

You need to cut a slit in the fabric where the zipper lies.  This slit will go through both layers — the PUL and the lining fabric.  It should be slightly shorter than the zipper itself.

On the edge of each slit, cut up about 1/4″, and down about 1/4″.  Fold these over (both layers) with the PUL side facing up.  Pin the zipper to the PUL side.  You are pinning it to the lining (folded over), PUL (folded over), and both layers in the front too.

Sew the zipper on both sides (along where it is pinned).  The zipper is being sewn to four layers of fabric.

Then the zipper is in!

Now, flip it over and fold up the PUL.  Sew it on all the open sides so that it is now a closed bag, accessed through the zipper.

Final step to this side is to pin the outer fabric to the wet bag and sew it together on all four sides.

Now, it’s time to put the whole thing together!  Almost done. :)

Pin one side to the long side/bottom piece you sewed earlier.  The corners will be a little bit weird; it’s okay.  Later, you’ll fold them over slightly as you sew.  Pin RIGHT SIDES together now, you’re finishing it with neat edges!

(You can see a snap I put on in the picture below.  It didn’t work out so well, mostly because I can’t find the second die for my snap press.  But you can add one to the lining fabric, or Velcro, prior to sewing the lining to the cute fabric when you sew the side with pockets way before.)

Sorry that is blurry.  Somehow I only took one shot.

Fold over the corner carefully as you are sewing, just slightly so it all fits.

The very last step is the strap (and zipper, except I ran out of time and didn’t get to mine — I’ll mention it briefly in a minute but I don’t have pictures).

Tuck the unfinished edges of your sides in, and put the strap down in between them.  Sew across to finish them and sew the strap on.

To do a zipper, you will simply pin it to the inside of each edge of the bag, and sew it like you did the previous one.  If and when I get around to adding mine, I’ll take pictures and put them in here.

Then, your bag is done!  How awesome is that?

What’s your favorite diaper bag feature?

Monday Health & Wellness: Pineapple-Infused Face Lotion

I’ve always made “creams” before, because they are easy.  Melt oils together, pour into jar, done.  A lotion‘s a bit of a different creature — it’s an emulsion of water and oils.  I wanted a lotion for my face, though, because I wanted something that was a little bit thinner and smoother.  This lotion goes great with the oil cleansing blend I posted earlier.  If that blend is a little drying for you, simply add this to your routine and it might be perfect.

Ingredients:

  • 1 c. avocado oil
  • 1/2 c. pineapple cores and skins
  • 3 tbsp. beeswax
  • 1/2 c. sweet almond oil
  • 1/2 c. water
  • 4 drops ylang-ylang essential oil
  • 10 drops lemongrass essential oil
  • 4 drops lavender oil

Directions:

Put your pineapple bits in a small pot (1 quart is fine).

Add your oil on top.  Simmer it gently for about an hour on low heat.

Strain the oil into a measuring cup.  Add your beeswax.  You may need to put it back on the stove to completely melt, depending on how quickly you get the beeswax in after straining.  I did.  Return it to your measuring cup when it’s melted, though.

Add your sweet almond oil now (fill measuring cup to 1 1/2 cups).  Let this mixture cool until it’s just warm.  It will get all gloopy and thick.  Then, pour it into the blender.

To this, add 1/2 cup filtered water.  Then, add your essential oils.

Start blending this, turning it up to about medium speed.

This part is really neat.  You can see how the bottom is white, while the top is still yellow.  As it incorporates, it becomes thinner and whiter like that.  You may need to get a spatula and scrape down the sides, so that all the oil gets blended in.  Then it looks like this:

It smelled so good…kind of like fruit punch.  I sort of wanted to eat it.  Except I didn’t really…I just wanted some fruit punch. :)  I wonder if I got some actual lemongrass and made tea from it and blended in fruit if that would be like fruit punch?  Hmm, ideas….

Anyway, pour this into a jar and scrape it all out.  It will thicken as it cools and sits, and be a very creamy lotion.  This makes about a pint (16 oz.).

The blender will be hard to clean.  Add hot water and soap and blend it on medium.  Pour it out and repeat a few times, then run it through the dishwasher.  Mine is better now.  :)

After a week of using it, I love it.  I love my new facial care system (two weeks now using the oil cleansing blend).  I think it is making my pores appear smaller and my skin is much softer.  Give it a try…I bet you will like it!

**This post has been entered in Monday Mania at The Healthy Home Economist, Wildcrafting Wednesday.**

Do you use lotion?  Are you ready for a healthy, junk-free version?

Simple Skirt Tutorial

Who doesn’t love a pretty skirt?

I made this style of skirt for my daughter for Christmas last year.  She loves it and wears it all the time.  When she heard I was going to make her another to do this tutorial, she was thrilled!  I even decided to make myself a similar one too…why not?  I like pretty clothes and FREE (I have a ton of fabric sitting around…seriously, like 100 yards or something) sounds awesome to me!

All you need to be able to do is do a straight stitch.  It is very basic and easy to do this skirt, so it’s a great project for a beginner.  Or someone more experienced, because it does make a cute skirt. :)

You will need:

  • 1 – 3 lengths of fabric (depending on how many layers you want to your skirt)
  • Matching thread (I use neutral/tan on everything)
  • Elastic, 3/4″ or 1″ (depending on size; smaller for a smaller person)
  • Measuring tape
  • Scissors
  • Pins

I know; I didn’t say how much elastic or fabric you will need.  It varies entirely depending on how big you want the skirt.  So let’s talk about that part first.

You can choose to make the skirt all one color, two different colors (coordinating colors/patterns), or three colors.  So the first thing you need to do is decide how many you want.  Got it?

Now, measure yourself or your intended recipient from natural waistline to where you want the skirt to end.  I personally prefer a long-ish skirt, falling a couple inches below the knees.  I think it’s more modest.  But that’s me.  It’s up to you how long you want to make yours.  To this measurement, you will add 2″ for seam allowance and elastic casing.  This is your total skirt length.  If you are making it from just one fabric, this is your number.

If you want to make a skirt that is two different colors, divide this number in half and add 1/2″ to each.  So, if you want a skirt to be 24″ in length when finished, you will add 2″ — 26″ total.  Then you will divide this in half — 13″ each.  Add 1/2″ for seam allowance — 13 1/2″ per piece.  This is your length per piece.

If you want a skirt that is three different colors, divide your number by 3, then add 1″ to the “middle” piece and 1/2″ to each of the outside pieces.  So, if you want a 24″ skirt, you add 2″ — 26″.  Then divide by 3 — we’ll call it about 9″ (it’s really 8 2/3″).  Add 1/2″ to top and bottom pieces — 9 1/2″ each.  The middle section, add an inch — 10″ total.

Now, you need to figure out how big around the skirt needs to be.  Measure your waist loosely with a soft tape measure.  You will want to add 6″ to this number for your top (or only) tier.  This is so you can put in the elastic and have extra fabric there to make it look gathered and pretty.  You want 2″ less elastic than the original number.

If you are doing additional tiers, then the second one needs to be 50% wider than the first.  The third needs to be 50% wider than the second.  This is because you will be gathering it later.

Types of Fabric

I have used all types of fabric for this — light cottons, silky, denims, etc.  It seems to work out okay.  It’s probably best to use either denims or light to medium weight cottons.  Silky fabrics may look a little weird.  But, choose what you like; this is forgiving.

The Tutorial

Okay, it’s to get sewing!  Gather up your materials.

Measure yourself (or your intended recipient) if you haven’t already.  If, like me, you’ve temporarily lost your tape measure, you can take a rough estimate by wrapping the fabric around yourself and adding the 6″ that way.  This worked for us.  Cut your first rectangle (your top piece).

The denim is my top fabric.  I have it laying on my bottom fabric.  I will cut the bottom piece roughly the same width, but 50% longer.  Like this.

See how it extends well beyond?  That’s how you “measure” if you’ve lost your ruler.  This pattern is pretty forgiving.  Like I said, it’s simple. :)

Now it’s time to sew!  First you will need to pin the two pieces together, right sides together (if you have three, you will do this next part twice.  If you have one, skip this part).  Match the ends and the center together.  The longer piece will be loose around the pins.

Yes, that’s my daughter’s foot there…she was “helping.”  :)

Now you will sew it.  Start at one end, and gather slowly as you go along.  I do mine like this.  A quick sewing note: always forward stitch a few stitches, then backstitch, then continue sewing normally at the beginning of every seam.  It helps to add strength.  Do the same at the end — backstitch a bit to make sure it’s sturdy.

I do this about every 1 – 2″ all along the skirt.  It works out as a nice little gather.  Once you have done this, you will need to sew a second seam just below the first, to reinforce it.  It will look like this.

If you have a third tier, repeat the last few steps to get that third tier sewn on.  If not, move on.

Fold your skirt in half, right sides together.

Now you will sew a seam down the open side so that the skirt is put together.  Almost done!

Now, turn down the top of the skirt (to the inside) to make a casing for your elastic.  It should be 1/4″ further than your elastic is wide.  I”m using 1/2″ elastic because it’s for my daughter and she’s small.  Use bigger elastic for bigger people.  Here’s mine folded down.

Sew this casing down, but not all the way.

Leave a couple inches open in the middle, like this:

Take your elastic, and put a safety pin on one end.  This will give you something to grip as you put the elastic through.  Slip the safety-pinned end into the casing and work the elastic all the way through, making sure not to lose the other end inside!

Once the elastic is all the way through (make sure to keep it flat; don’t let it get twisted or it will be uncomfortable), sew the elastic ends together.  Go over them three or four times (forward stitch, back stitch, repeat).

Once it’s sewn together well, allow the elastic to go fully inside the casing.  Smooth it out so it’s roughly evenly gathered all around the skirt (you can adjust this later as you’re wearing the skirt, so it is not that crucial now).  Sew the opening of the casing closed.

All that’s left to do is hem the skirt.  If possible, you will want to try the skirt on now to see how much it should be hemmed.  (I did one for my niece as a gift for Christmas so obviously I couldn’t have her try it on.  But I do with my daughter.)

The right way to hem it is to fold it up 1/2 as much as you want and pin it and sew it, then fold up again and pin and sew, using a zig-zag if desired.  This way you have a nice finished edge on the inside and out.

…or you could be lazy like I was, and just fold it up and sew it once.  No one’s going to see, right?

Now your skirt is done!  Isn’t that cool?  Here’s my little model with her new skirt.  She normally hates having her picture taken and runs from the camera, but she was so pleased with her skirt that she agreed to pose for me.  She did, however, feel the need to make faces. :)

How easy was that?

Do you like fun skirts?  What’s your favorite style?

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